About the Author
----------------
Josiah Citrin is a respected restaurateur and a fixture of the
Los Angeles gourmet dining scene, with more than twenty-five
years of experience. He is a two-star Michelin chef and the owner
of Santa Monica's highly accled Mélisse, Charcoal Venice,
Openaire at The Line Hotel in Koreatown, and Dave's Doghouse at
Stes Center in Downtown Los Angeles. He has appeared as a
guest judge on Hell's Kitchen and Top Chef Junior, in addition to
being featured on PBS' The Mind of a Chef. His culinary
philosophy, "In Pursuit of Excellence," sets the standard for all
of his restaurant concepts, whether fine-dining or casual.
JoAnn Cianciulli is known as one of the food industry's top
insiders. A pioneer in her field, JoAnn has written a dozen
cookbooks, most recently the accled L.A's Original Farmers
Market Cookbook and Crossroads. As culinary producer, her
television credits include Top Chef, Master Chef, Recipe Rehab
and the Next Iron Chef. JoAnn lives in Los Angeles.
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Cabbage Baked in Embers with Yogurt, Sumac, and Lemon Zest
SERVES 4
Who would have thought that the most popular dish on the Charcoal
menu would be cabbage?! We bury a whole head of plain ol’ green
cabbage and cook it in blistering coals until the outer leaves
are caramelized and give way to a soft, steamed interior. Because
of its size and density, cabbage lends itself well to the
smoldering embers of the fire, where it transforms and emerges
juicy, smoky, and meaty. Trust me, even people who think they
don’t like cabbage—they’ve only had watery coleslaw or bland
cabbage soup—go nuts for this addictive starter dish. Served
warm, the charred cabbage leaves play off the coolness of the
yogurt dipping sauce, which is fragrant with citrusy sumac and
lemon. It’s simple enough to add another head or two of cabbage
for a gathering, and any leftovers you can slice into ribbons to
top tacos. Be sure to try the yogurt sauce over any of your
favorite grilled vegetables, such as egg, or use it as a
dressing spooned over fresh tomato salad.
• 1 large head green cabbage (about 2 pounds)
• Extra-virgin olive oil
• Fine sea salt
• 1 cup plain whole-milk Greek yogurt
• 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh chives
• Finely grated zest of 1 lemon
• Juice of ½ lemon
• 1 teaspoon sumac
1.Transfer the grill grate from a charcoal grill and build a hot
fire with lump charcoal until red-hot. Rub the cabbage lightly
with olive oil and season generously with salt, ensuring that all
sides are well coated. Put on your fireproof gloves. Make a well
in the center of the coals using a rake or shovel, and carefully
add the cabbage. Use the rake or shovel to bury the cabbage
completely by covering it with the surrounding hot coals. You may
grill something on top at the same time if desired. Close the lid
to keep the heat in and to prevent the charcoal from burning out
too quickly. You want to maintain the temperature at about 400°F
by adjusting the vents.
2.The cabbage should be completely charred and black on all sides
and tender in the center in about 1 hour; check by piercing with
a cake tester or paring . If it’s not done, continue
roasting in the coals for 5 more minutes. If you are preparing
the cabbage ahead, wrap tightly in aluminum foil and keep it warm
in a low oven.
3.In a small mixing , combine the yogurt, chives, lemon zest,
lemon juice, and sumac until smooth.
4.Cut the cabbage through the core into quarters. Cut the core
out of each piece. Arrange the cabbage wedges on a serving
platter and season lightly with salt. Rip off the cabbage leaves
with your fingers and dip into the sauce.
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